How are waves made

8 fact

How are waves made

1. If winds created in low pressure systems keep blowing the surface of the ocean for a long time, swells will be bigger because energy is accumulated in all waves produced.

2. Also, if low pressure winds affect a very large area of the ocean, all waves produced by the swell will have even more energy and power, resulting in even bigger waves.

3. We've already analyzed the "birth" of swell and correspondent waves, but there's a large distance to be traveled by those waves.

4. Original oceanic waves may have to run a long journey until they reach continental beaches.

5. Along the way, until they are ridden by surfers, these waves will have to challenge other variables.

6. The height of a wave when it is created is not the height of the waves that is ridden by a surfer.

7. Waves make their way through the ocean and are affected by the differences in the ocean floor.

8. When large volumes of water move and pass by higher sea floors, the overall energy of the swell is changed.

I got my facts from this site:

http://www.surfer today.com/wave-height-forecast/9-wave-forecast/6760-how-is-a-wave-formed-understanding-swell-and-surf-forecasts